I don’t know but if I’ll have an opportunity to see Paris, Metropolis of Pearls in particular person, however this exhibition is just too spectacular to not share with you! Let’s have a look.
Exhibition Paris, Metropolis of Pearls – Picture Dylan Dubois
There’s an thrilling new jewellery exhibit on the town! Paris, Metropolis of Pearls has opened at L’ÉCOLE, Faculty of Jewellery Arts (the jewellery college supported by Van Cleef & Arpels) and it feels like a can’t miss for any jewellery lovers within the space.
What makes Paris the town of pearls? In accordance with the exhibition supplies:
From the late 1860s to the late Nineteen Thirties – a interval comparable to France’s Third Republic – a majority of the pearls fished within the Gulf have been steadily delivered to France, offered in Paris and mounted by the highest jewelers of the Place Vendôme. Account books, telegrams, archive paperwork and interval pictures testify to the size of this commerce.
Routes throughout land, sea after which sky have been opened, main figures emerged in each the Gulf and France, fortunes have been made, and the pearl commerce sparked an unprecedented financial increase. As new commerce routes have been developed, hyperlinks have been cast between folks and cultures – from the France of the primary third of the twentieth century to the Gulf international locations, referred to by the French on the time because the “pearl coast.”
In addition to celebrating nearly a century of shared historical past, this exhibition units out to indicate the extent to which each pure pearls and the aesthetic pearls that arrived in France within the Nineteen Twenties impressed not solely Parisian jewelers but additionally artists within the broader sense. All of them appear to have been pushed by the identical ardour for pearls, no matter their technique of creative expression – opera, portray, pictures, poster design, illustration or cinema – to the purpose that the pearl turned one of many symbolic types of the Roaring Twenties.
In search of to penetrate the ultimate mysteries of those biominerals, the exhibition embraces a crossover of historical past, artwork and science. This wide-ranging imaginative and prescient of information is on the coronary heart of L’ÉCOLE’s mission. Based in 2012 with help from Van Cleef & Arpels, L’ÉCOLE invitations the general public to study concerning the historical past of jewellery and the abilities concerned, and about gems, via courses, talks, publications and exhibitions, in Paris and elsewhere on the planet.”
Paris, Metropolis of Pearls presents 100 items of jewellery in addition to paperwork and drawings from prestigious lenders just like the Paris Museum of Ornamental Arts, the Petit Palais – Fantastic Arts Museum of Paris, heritage collections of the Maisons Van Cleef & Arpels, Cartier and Fred, and the distinctive Albion Artwork personal assortment.
I don’t have images of all the treasures of the Paris, Metropolis of Pearls exhibition, however L’ÉCOLE, Faculty of Jewellery Arts was sort sufficient to ship me some photos to share with you.
© Albion Artwork Jewelry Institute
This necklace is just about good, in my humble opinion. It’s easy, glamorous, and dramatic in one of the best ways. I completely adore the distinction between the graceful, curvy, rectangular pearls with the crisp geometry of the center ingredient that suspends them.
The form makes me surprise if this magnificence may need been fitted to an non-compulsory tiara body at one level in historical past, however the Paris, Metropolis of Pearls exhibit doesn’t point out this, so maybe that’s simply wishful considering on my half.
This pearl necklace was made in 1890 and options pure pearls and diamonds set in gold and silver.
© Picture L’ÉCOLE, Faculty of Jewellery Arts – Benjamin Chelly
A robust distinction to the flowery items above, this light-as-air pearl dragonfly ring from the Artwork Nouveau period dates to 1910 and is the work of the well-known René Lalique ring. It contains a pure pearl, diamonds, and enamel in yellow gold.
Loaned to Paris, Metropolis of Pearls exhibition by a non-public collector.
© Albion Artwork Jewelry Institute
One of many coolest subgenres of pearl jewellery is when oddly-shaped baroque pearls are remodeled into tiny sculptures by the addition of artistic parts.
This owl pendant, circa 1880, is a unbelievable instance of the method at its most interesting: that’s a pure pearl within the center, remodeled from nameless lumpiness by the addition of the owl’s toes and head. I particularly love the rose lower eyes, the small print on the department, and the owl’s options.
This piece contains a baroque pearl with diamonds, rubies, and gold. Loaned to Paris, Metropolis of Pearls from Albion Artwork Institute.
I don’t imply to select favorites, however BONJOUR to this completely spectacular Artwork Deco period pearl bag. Have a look at the tiny onyx particulars alongside the body of the bag, the stunning hyperlinks of the chain, the woven seed pearls!
Made by Van Cleef & Arpels and at the moment within the Van Cleef & Arpels Assortment, this beautiful night bag dates to 1924 and is produced from platinum with woven pearls, onyx, and diamonds.
I discussed above that Paris, Metropolis of Pearls exhibition additionally comprises quite a few drawings and paperwork together with quite a few pleasant jewellery editorials and adverts.
Titled “The Fountain of Shells. Paquin Night Robe,” and drawn by George Barbier, this web page appeared within the Gazette du bon ton, no. 3, plate 27, in 1914.
© Albion Artwork Jewelry Institute
This magnificent matched set is a necklace and earrings that belonged to Edith Amelia Glyn, Woman Wolverton (1896–1902).
These treasures have been made by Frédéric Boucheron and have pure pearls and diamonds set in gold and silver. Loaned to Paris, Metropolis of Pearls by the Albion Artwork Institute.
This pendant is one other private favourite – I can’t resist the juxtaposition of lumpy pearls with exact geometry.
Made in 1880 by Germain Bapst and Lucien Falize, this pendant options gray pure pearls and diamonds in gold. Loaned to Paris, Metropolis of Pearls by Wartski.
How about one other editorial?
This one options the artwork of Jean-Gabriel Domergue and is an commercial for the Maison Van Cleef & Arpels, from La Renaissance de l’artwork français et des industries de luxe, January 1923.
© Faerber
From summary to figural, we’re wanting subsequent at this completely enchanting bodice decoration by Henri Vever. In the event you acknowledge that identify, it’s as a result of Mr. Vever was among the best recognized jewelers in Europe in his day, particularly recognized for his Artwork Nouveau designs. Not laborious to imagine this stunner, is it?
This bodice decoration was loaned to Paris, Metropolis of Pearls by Faerber.
© Picture L’ÉCOLE, Faculty of Jewellery Arts – Benjamin Chelly
The Artwork Deco period is understood for its spectacular use of pearls and this brooch is about as Deco because it will get. Courting to 1925, this marvelously dramatic brooch options pure pearls and diamonds in platinum.
Loaned to Paris Metropolis of Pearls exhibition by a non-public assortment.
© Albion Artwork Jewelry Institute
This distinctive necklace is the work of one other large identify (or pair of names): it’s by Carlo and Arturo Giuliano. In the event you look carefully, you may see their signature delicate enamel work on the mountings suspending the pearl drops.
This piece dates to 1890 and options pure pearls and enamel in gold. Loaned to Paris, Metropolis of Pearls by Albion Artwork Institute.
That is one other Artwork Deco brooch, however a barely later one – and the distinction in period reveals within the 1930’s sensuality that this lengthy and languorous piece exudes. Created by Dusausoy, this piece is circa 1930 and options pure pearls and diamonds in platinum.
Loaned to Paris Metropolis of Pearls by Symbolic & Chase, London.
Probably the most trendy piece from Paris, Metropolis of Pearls that we’re right now, this charismatic modern design is JAR’s Sheep’s head brooch.
Created in 2006, this brooch options pure pearls and cabochon star sapphires in aluminum with silver and gold.
This spectacular Gladiator is one other instance of a baroque pearl became a determine via artistic embellishment. I particularly love the massive diamond that represents the face.
It’s a MidCentury piece, created by Van Cleef & Arpels in 1956, and options emeralds, rubies, turquoise, pearls, a baroque pearl, and diamonds in yellow gold.
Exhibition Paris, Metropolis of Pearls – Picture Dylan Dubois
Paris, Metropolis of Pearls is at L’ÉCOLE, Faculty of Jewellery Arts till June 1, 2025, so you continue to have time to recover from there! Admission is free, however reservations are required. Extra data right here.
In the event you (like me) are unlikely to make it over to Paris within the subsequent few months, don’t despair! The exhibit’s catalog has been printed as a brand new e-book, and you should purchase Paris, Metropolis of Pearls to your private jewellery library right here.
Need extra pearls? Discover my shoppable Fashionable Pearl Jewellery wishlist right here, my Pearl weblog submit archive right here, and my Pearl Pinterest board right here. All images are c/o L’ÉCOLE, Faculty of Jewellery Arts.
This submit comprises affiliate hyperlinks.
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