In its marketing campaign for the brand new Spirit Zulu Time 1925, Longines is harnessing the ability of a easy query: “What time is it there?” In a nutshell, the brand new 39mm watch is a “true” GMT that reminds the world that Longines claims to have made the world’s first twin time zone wristwatch in 1925. Immediately, we’d discover ourselves asking “what time is it there?” each day, given our relentless information cycle, however in 1908, Longines was reacting to a request from the Ottoman Empire.
The empire adopted a distinct commonplace of time but additionally discovered it helpful to maintain monitor of Western time, and thus Longines settled that first “what time is it there?” query. Apparently, the unique 1925 mannequin had a correct sq. case (to our eyes) and sported two hour and two minute arms.
The present Spirit Zulu Time 1925 provides one thing extremely uncommon for the model – a rose gold cap bezel insert. The truth is, that is the primary and solely occasion we are able to affirm of such a transfer. The look is sort of charming, not less than in photos, and rose gold does have a tendency in direction of hotter tones in actuality. In most different methods, together with the automated calibre L844.4, the Spirit 1925 mannequin is unchanged from the 2022 Spirit Zulu Time. Notice right here you could really view the motion on this new mannequin as a result of Longines has switched out the closed caseback for an exhibition one. That is unbelievable information, on condition that the calibre was huge information in 2022 and now has a particular rose gold (by way of PVD therapy) rotor engraved with an old-fashioned map of the world. Notice additionally that the arms are all rose gold plated and so are the utilized Arabic numerals.
Whereas every little thing that’s new concerning the Spirit 1925 mannequin is roofed above, and we now have not had a correct session with the brand new watch, a couple of factors are value reiterating. The obvious characteristic to recollect right here is the “true” versus “desk” nature of the GMT, which suggests you may regulate the native hour hand in one-hour increments (managed by way of the crown).
We do recall seeing Spirit fashions on the Longines regional novelty present however we’re not sure concerning the dealing with expertise for this particular mannequin. The bezel of those fashions tends to be pleasantly stiff, shifting in distinct steps and with a comforting sound.
When the Spirit GMT was launched in 2022, it was amongst the primary such correct GMT fashions. It stays a welcome horological instrument in a sea of deskers however, right here with the gold capped bezel, the value has gone up by a fourth. Bronze is likely to be a superb choice for Longines to think about right here, to keep up this heat look. As an unique various, the Swatch Group’s 14k bronze gold involves thoughts.
This story was first seen as a part of the WOW #79 Summer season 2025 Situation
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